On my first day in Cambodia, I went to visit the Killing Fields and the S-21 museum. I knew nothing about Cambodia before I got here. I’ve never met anyone from Cambodia. I don’t have any Cambodian friends. I’ve never had any Cambodian cuisine. Unlike more popular Southeast Asian destinations like Thailand, or Vietnam, I also don’t know anybody that has been to Cambodia.
Most people come to Cambodia to see Angkor Wat. I will do that, but I felt it was important to pay homage to the victims of the Khmer Rouge regime from 1975 to 1979 first, and that’s what the Killing Fields is about.
The official name for the Killing Fields in Phnom Penh is called the “Chong Ek Genocide Center,” and it is only one of the hundreds of killing sites throughout Cambodia.
When you enter, they give you a headset so you can do a self-guided walking tour. Once again, aside from the fact that I knew people come to see Angkor Wat, I knew nothing about Cambodia. Let alone, what the killing fields were about, why it happened, and who the Khmer Rouge was.
But that’s why I travel. Not just for the amazing scenery, not just for the food, but to learn more about humanity, and hopefully, to come out a better, more open-minded, and compassionate person as a result.
At the Choeung Ek Killing Field alone, an estimated 17,000 people died. All shuttled in by the truckload, and lied to that they were being transported to “new homes” so as to prevent any protests during transportation. When the victims arrive, often at night, the sound of the rumbling generators powering the floodlights would drown out the sounds of anyone being killed.
One by one, they were told to kneel before the pits dug into the ground as they were then executed, either by an axe, or a metal rod. Bullets were seldom used because they were expensive.
The most jarring point I learned was that of the sugar palm. That’s right. A palm tree. Little did I know, the older leaves located at the lower parts of the sugar palm have edges as sharp as knives. Sometimes, peoples’ necks were slit on those very edges.
There are other gruesome details that I learned of that day that I won’t go into, but this is precisely why I travel. I enjoy the new foods, the new cultures, the beautiful sights, and the sounds, but at its core, I travel to learn.
The most disturbing thing about it all is the fact that this wasn’t very long ago. The Khmer Rouge committed this act of genocide from 1975-1979. This means any Cambodian past the age of 41 lived through this terrible time in history, many of whom lost their family members to the hands of propaganda and extreme ideology.
I know when it comes to travel, many of us look to get away from it all and to relax, but if given the opportunity, I suggest taking the time to stop and learn about the history if possible. Particularly, if you are coming to Cambodia, take the time to visit the Killing Fields and the S-21 museum.
by Jason Lam