I finally learned how to surf and I love it so much. It’s definitely my new favorite hobby. The learning curve is pretty steep but it’s so rewarding when things finally start to click. I love the feeling of being able to catch a wave, it feels like I’m flying!
Anyways, here are some life lessons I learned from surfing:
Don’t wait for the perfect wave - Everybody wants the perfect wave. Who doesn’t? But waiting for the perfect wave might mean waiting forever. Meanwhile, there are others going after every wave, and even though they’re not perfect, they’re at least seizing the opportunity to practice and hone their craft. You can’t wait for everything to be perfect in life before you get going. Just get going. Often times, you can figure it out and make the necessary adjustments along the way. Better yet, the imperfect wave might just turn out to be the perfect wave for you, but there’s only one way to find out.
Commit - Sometimes I see a wave coming and I’m not sure if it’s the right one to chase. This happened a lot when I first started surfing. I wouldn’t really commit. I would kind of just half-ass it by paddling a little bit and give up. Meanwhile, I see others beside me continuing to paddle and actually getting the wave. Wow! Nothing is more of a wake up call than seeing others capitalize on waves that you gave up on. If you’re going to do something, commit to it fully, otherwise you’re just guaranteeing your own failure.
Work on the fundamentals - All the perfect waves in the world mean nothing without strong fundamentals. When I first started learning how to surf, I didn’t go straight out into the ocean. I started on the sand and practiced the basics to build good habits. Even when I got out into the water, I would constantly watch people who were better than me to see how I could improve. If you’re going to capitalize on any opportunities in life, you’re going to need strong fundamentals. Put in the work first, so when the opportunities come, and they will, you’ll be ready to ride the wave.
Life is better with friends - I know, stating the obvious here, but I think I got lucky because I made so many new friends when I was learning how to surf. We all got better together and it was so great having each other as support. I can be a bit of a nomad at times, and try to figure everything out on my own. Though I enjoy this type of challenge, I often get caught in a funk and fail to realize that I’ve been spending too much time alone. It’s not just what you do that matters, it’s who you do it with, and I’ll always remember all the wonderful friends I’ve made through surfing.
Stop overthinking - Sometimes, I get nervous when a wave comes because I don’t want to mess it up! Other times, I’ll go after a wave, but I’m so tense, that I just end up wasting all my energy and the wave passes me by. At worst, the perfect wave will come but I’m overthinking everything and I miss out on the best wave of the day. Throughout all of this, I need to remind myself to relax, to breathe, and to get out of my own way. Life gives you many opportunities. They come in many shapes and sizes. But to move forward, sometimes it’s about letting go, trusting the work that you’ve put in, and allowing life to push you forward.
Timing is everything - There have definitely been days where all I’m doing is paddling and I catch no waves. Meanwhile, I see others catching everything! “What am I doing wrong?” I’d ask myself. I’m paddling as hard as I can, but I still can’t seem to catch anything. Meanwhile, there are other people in the water who seem to be catching everything so effortlessly. There was a point where a couple straight up looked at me and said, “You’re paddling way too early.” Yikes. In life, you don’t get rewarded for doing the right things at the wrong time.
Surfing is healing - When I began surfing, I spent more time in the ocean than I ever have before, and one thing I’ll never forget is how amazing I always felt after a surf session. I don’t know what it is, but I always feel rejuvenated and just a happier person overall. Cathartic is the best way I can describe it. Everything just seems to melt away and nothing else matters. It could be because I already love the ocean, but I also think it’s the combination of exercise, being one with nature, and working towards bettering yourself that leads to its healing properties. I know now, that if I’m ever having a bad day, I just need to go surfing.
The importance of rest - Surfing can be pretty exhausting. You’re exposed to the elements and the ocean never stops moving. You constantly have to be on the lookout for the next wave. You might get sunburned, someone might crash into you, heck, your own board might even wack you in the face. If none of that happens, just falling off your surfboard and having to get back on repeatedly is enough to provide a full-body workout. Make sure you prioritize rest as much as you prioritize all your actions in life. It may not seem important among the popularization of “Hustle Culture,” but simply put, without rest, there can be no action. I’ve definitely injured myself because I didn’t have the discipline to rest.
Learn how to fall properly - You’re guaranteed to fall when you go surfing, so you might as well learn how to fall properly. When you fall, you should jump away from your surfboard and protect your head and neck. You do this because you don’t want your surfboard coming back to wack you in the head. I’ve definitely been hit by my own surfboard and trust me, it hurts. You’re going to fall many times in life, but it never has to be a complete wipeout. Learn how to fall in a manner that will keep you in the game, so you can keep learning and growing for the rest of your life.
Keep swimming out - Contrary to popular belief, the hardest part about surfing is not catching a wave, it’s paddling out from the shore. You’re fighting against the waves and you can burn a lot of energy. There were definitely days when I was tired and it felt impossible to swim out because the waves kept pushing me back. However, I knew that giving up and going home would lead to nothing. Sometimes it can seem like you’re not making much progress in life, but despite the obstacles, you have to keep swimming out. Keep moving forward. Life isn’t going to make it easy for you. You will get pushed back. What’s important is how you respond in these moments. Keep swimming out.
by Jason Lam